Bronze Age make-up recipes from Sudanese Lower Nubia point to a greater diversity across cultural borders in ancient Northeast Africa

Abstract

Previous scientific explorations of kohl and other make-up substances from ancient Egypt have revealed a considerable diversity of materials and recipes used in different regions and time periods. However, samples from Sudanese Nubia have never been included in scientific investigations of make-up substances used along the Nile valley. For the first time, 24 samples of kohl and other cosmetics from Bronze Age Sudanese Lower Nubia (c. 2055–1070 BCE) were analysed using optical microscopy, GC-MS, SEM-EDS, ATR-FTIR and XRD. Beyond expanding our knowledge of make-up usage in the ancient Nile valley by including samples from Sudan, this study adds further depth to our understanding of make-up substances in ancient Northeast Africa by exploring samples from well-defined archaeological contexts. The multi-analytical approach presented here sheds light on the diversity of recipes used by various communities in the Middle Nile valley during the Bronze Age. Most samples are dominated by lead sulphides, but these occur in various mixtures with quartz, clay, calcite, gypsum and zinc compounds, in addition to plant gums and animal fats. We also report for the first time the use of synthetic calcium antimonate in ancient cosmetic mixtures. Besides expanding our knowledge of make-up mixtures in ancient Northeast Africa, our study suggests that the considerable variation detected across the cultural borders of Bronze Age Egypt and Nubia reflects distinctive bodily ideals.